Staircase and railing remodels

Which parts of a stair can change?

The useful insight is that the expensive, structural parts are almost never what makes a stair look dated. Heavy 1980s turned spindles, an orange-toned oak handrail and a bulky newel post are what date it, and all three are replaceable.

What can you not change?

Stair geometry is governed by code because falls on stairs are a serious injury category. The rules vary by jurisdiction and by whether the work is a repair or a rebuild, but the principles are consistent:

• Riser height and tread depth must fall within defined limits, and — just as importantly — must be consistent from step to step. A single riser a half inch different from the rest is a trip hazard, and inspectors look for it.
• Handrail height above the tread nosing is specified, as is graspability — a rail must be a shape a hand can close around, which rules out some decorative profiles.
• Baluster spacing is limited so a small child cannot pass through. This is the rule that most often catches people replacing spindles with a wider spacing for a lighter look.
• Guard height at landings and open sides is specified.
• Headroom above the stair is specified and cannot be altered without structural work.

Adding a tread thickness on top of existing treads changes the riser height of the first and last steps, which is exactly the inconsistency the rules exist to prevent. It is the most common way a cosmetic stair project quietly creates a code problem. Confirm the requirements with your jurisdiction — Dallas, Highland Park and University Park each administer their own, as covered in permits and trades in Dallas.

Balusters and handrails

• Simple square or tapered wood balusters read as calm and current, and suit almost every house.
• Metal balusters — plain rod, or a simple twist — lighten a heavy stair dramatically and let light through. They suit both traditional and contemporary interiors, which is why they are so widely used.
• Painted balusters with a stained handrail is the reliable combination: the rail reads as wood where the hand touches it, the infill disappears.
• Spacing is set by code, not by preference. Confirm the maximum gap before ordering.
• The newel post sets the tone. A slimmer post makes the whole stair feel lighter, and it is the one part that must be anchored properly — it takes real load.
• Handrail profile. Choose one that a hand closes around comfortably. Test it in your hand rather than choosing from a drawing.

Treads, risers and finishes

• Refinishing existing treads is usually possible and usually the right first move. Old-growth oak under a carpet is often better material than anything replacing it.
• Painted risers with stained treads is the most reliable stair finish there is: crisp, easy to touch up, and it makes the geometry read clearly.
• Match the tread stain to the floor, or contrast it deliberately. Slightly-off is the outcome to avoid, and it is common because stair treads take stain differently from flooring.
• Retread systems that cap existing treads exist and work, provided the effect on riser heights is addressed rather than ignored.
• Matte finish, not gloss. Gloss on a stair is slippery and shows every scuff.
• The skirt board against the wall is what makes stair work look finished. Replacing a thin one with a properly scaled board is a small change with a large effect.

Runners: what they do and how to size one

A runner does four things at once, which is unusual value for one item: it reduces noise substantially, adds grip on a hard tread, protects the finish, and adds color and pattern to a space that usually has none.

• Leave 3 to 5 inches of tread visible on each side. Wider than that and it reads as fitted carpet; narrower and it looks mean.
• Wool, or a good wool blend. A stair runner takes more traffic per square foot than anything else in the house.
• Pattern hides wear. A plain runner on a stair shows the traffic path within a year.
• Use a pad. It roughly doubles the life of the runner and makes the stair quieter and softer underfoot.
• Rods are decorative, not structural. The runner is fixed under the nosing regardless; the rods are a finish detail.
• Order it with extra length so it can be shifted a few inches in a decade to move the wear pattern.

The related principles for rug sizing and material are in the rug guide.

Lighting a staircase

• Light the treads, not the stairwell. What matters is that the edge of each tread is visible. A bright fixture overhead can leave the treads in shadow.
• Three-way switching at both ends is a code expectation and a basic convenience.
• Wall sconces along the flight or recessed step lights are the most effective solution, and they need wiring decided before the wall is closed.
• A night light or a low-level circuit. Stairs are used in the dark, and a dim permanent light is worth more than a bright switchable one.
• In a two-story entry, plan how the fixture will be cleaned and relamped before it is hung — see entry and foyer design.

Jan Revels

ASID Allied Professional Interior Designer · Chateau Concepts, Dallas

Jan has practiced interior design in Dallas since 1997 and founded Chateau Concepts in 2001. She holds a BFA in Interior Design from the University of North Texas. She designs and general-contracts residential and commercial projects across the Park Cities, Preston Hollow and North Dallas. Read her full profile →

Written and reviewed by Jan Revels before publication