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Renovating an older Park Cities home

Highland Park, University Park and Preston Hollow houses were built to last and built to different assumptions. Renovating one well means planning for what is behind the plaster.

Older Homes · 10 min read · Written & reviewed by Jan Revels, ASID · designing in Dallas since 1997

Short answer

Older Dallas homes reward renovation and punish assumptions. Before designing anything, establish four things: the foundation type (pier-and-beam or slab), the electrical service and wiring type, the plumbing material, and whether previous work was permitted. These four determine most of the cost and nearly all of the surprises.

Then carry a larger contingency than you would on a newer house — 15 to 20 percent is realistic — and confirm the permitting rules for your specific jurisdiction, because Highland Park and University Park are separate municipalities from the City of Dallas with their own requirements.

What these houses actually are

The Park Cities — Highland Park and University Park — are two independent municipalities entirely surrounded by the City of Dallas. Much of the housing stock dates from the 1920s through the 1940s, with substantial later infill and a continuing pattern of renovation and rebuilding. Preston Hollow developed somewhat later and at a larger scale, with bigger lots and, often, bigger rooms.

What that means practically:

The four things to establish first

1. Foundation type

Pier-and-beam gives you a crawl space, which makes rerouting plumbing and running new services comparatively straightforward. A slab — and particularly a post-tension slab — means any drain relocation involves cutting concrete, with care required to avoid tensioning cables. This single fact changes the cost of moving a toilet or a kitchen sink by an order of magnitude, so establish it before drawing a layout that depends on moving either.

Foundation movement is also a normal feature of North Texas clay soils. Doors that stick and hairline cracks are common; significant differential movement is not, and is worth a structural engineer's opinion before you spend money on finishes that will crack again.

2. Electrical service and wiring

Look at the panel. An older home may still have a service sized for a household with far fewer appliances, and adding a modern kitchen, a media room and HVAC can exceed it. Also identify the wiring type: knob-and-tube in the oldest properties, or aluminum branch wiring in some mid-century work, both of which have implications for safety, insurance and cost. Old two-prong outlets without a ground are a reliable sign that at least part of the house has never been updated.

If a panel upgrade or rewiring is needed, plan it as part of the project rather than discovering it mid-build, because it affects the schedule of every trade behind it.

3. Plumbing material

Galvanized steel supply lines corrode from the inside and restrict flow long before they leak; cast-iron drains have a finite life. If you are opening walls anyway, that is the cheapest moment you will ever have to replace them. Ask for a camera inspection of the main drain line before finalizing the budget — it is inexpensive and it prevents the single most disruptive mid-project discovery.

4. Whether previous work was permitted

An unpermitted addition or converted garage becomes your problem when you apply for a permit. Check the city records for your address early. It is far better to know at the planning stage, when the scope can absorb it, than at inspection.

Common surprises, and what they cost you in time

What turns upHow commonEffect on schedule
A “non-structural” wall that is structuralVeryEngineer's letter, beam design, revised permit — days to weeks
Galvanized or corroded supply linesCommon in pre-1960 homesAdded plumbing scope, usually within the existing sequence
Undersized electrical serviceCommonPanel upgrade, utility coordination — can be weeks
No insulation in exterior wallsVery commonSmall cost, large comfort gain — do it while open
Asbestos-containing materials or lead paintPossible in pre-1978 homesTesting and, if present, licensed abatement before work continues
Rotted subfloor beneath a bathroomCommon where a shower has leakedStructural repair before tile — a week or more
Ductwork with no viable route for a new layoutCommonRedesign of soffits or ceiling — affects elevations

None of these are reasons not to renovate. They are reasons to plan a contingency and to open walls for investigation early, rather than discovering everything at once on demolition day. On a house of this age, an exploratory opening during design is money extremely well spent.

Who issues permits in the Park Cities?

This trips up homeowners and out-of-area contractors constantly. Highland Park and University Park are separate towns. They issue their own permits, set their own requirements and run their own inspections. A Preston Hollow or North Dallas address falls under the City of Dallas, which is a different process again.

What to confirm before you schedule anything:

Your contractor normally handles the applications, but you should know what was applied for and see the approved permit. Ask for it.

Modernizing without stripping the character out

The characteristic failure in older-home renovation is not ugliness — it is erasure. The house ends up perfectly nice and no longer itself. A few principles that prevent it:

What is worth keeping, restoring or replacing?

ElementUsual verdictWhy
Original hardwood floorsKeep and refinishOld-growth timber, and they can be sanded several times
Original doors and hardwareKeepSolid construction and detail that is expensive to reproduce
Original windowsCase by caseRestoration with storm windows is often better than replacement; check any local rules
Plaster wallsRepair where soundDepth and character drywall does not have
Original kitchenUsually replaceBuilt for an obsolete pattern of use; the layout is the problem, not the finishes
Original bathroomsReplace, salvage selectivelyWaterproofing standards have changed entirely; keep tile or fittings you love
Wiring and plumbingReplaceNo character value, real risk value
Later “improvements” from the 70s–90sUsually removeOften what is obscuring the house's actual quality

That last row is worth dwelling on. A great many Park Cities renovations turn out to be, in large part, the removal of a previous renovation. Before designing anything new, find out what the house originally was — sometimes the best move is uncovering rather than adding.

Key takeaways

  • Establish foundation type, electrical service, plumbing material and permit history before designing anything.
  • Slab construction makes moving plumbing dramatically more expensive than pier-and-beam does.
  • Carry 15–20 percent contingency, and open a wall for investigation during design rather than on demolition day.
  • Highland Park and University Park permit separately from the City of Dallas. Confirm your jurisdiction.
  • Update systems ruthlessly; treat visible surfaces and proportions with respect.
  • Match trim profiles and keep plaster where it is sound — that is what makes new work look original.
  • Much of what looks dated is a previous renovation, not the original house.

Frequently asked questions

Is it cheaper to renovate an older home or build new?
It depends entirely on the house's condition and how much you are changing. Renovation preserves location, mature trees and character that cannot be rebuilt, and avoids the demolition and permitting burden of a new build. Where systems, foundation and layout all need replacing at once, the calculation narrows considerably. An honest assessment before design, rather than after, is what separates the two.
How much contingency should I hold for an older home?
15 to 20 percent of the construction budget is realistic for a pre-1960 house, and more if you already know of foundation, electrical or plumbing issues. If it goes unspent, you have a fund for the things you decide to add once you can see the space. It is not pessimism; it is how these projects are properly budgeted.
Can I open up a kitchen in a 1930s house?
Usually yes, but the answer depends on whether the wall is load-bearing and where the plumbing stack, gas line and ductwork run. All are establishable during design with a structural opinion and some investigative work. Removing a bearing wall means a beam, which means engineering and permitting — entirely routine, but it must be planned rather than improvised.
Do I need an architect as well as a designer?
For work that changes the building's footprint, roofline or structure, an architect and usually a structural engineer are involved. For work inside the existing envelope — kitchens, bathrooms, millwork, finishes, and layout changes within the existing walls — an interior designer working with a structural engineer where needed is often the appropriate team. The scope decides it.
How do I find out if previous work was permitted?
Contact the building department for your jurisdiction — Highland Park, University Park or the City of Dallas — and request the permit history for the address. Do this early. Discovering an unpermitted addition when your own application is under review is a genuinely expensive way to find out.
Jan Revels, ASID Allied Professional Interior Designer
ASID Allied Professional Interior Designer · Chateau Concepts, Dallas

Jan has practiced interior design in Dallas since 1997 and founded Chateau Concepts in 2001. She holds a BFA in Interior Design from the University of North Texas. She designs and general-contracts residential and commercial projects across the Park Cities, Preston Hollow and North Dallas. Read her full profile →

Written and reviewed by Jan Revels before publication

Renovating an older home?

Jan has worked in these houses since 1997 — she knows what they tend to be hiding and which workrooms meet their standard.

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